Joadja Ghost Town

Here is a great day out in the Southern Highlands, just under two hour’s drive from Sydney – about 145km for us. The old town of Joadja featured in a book I found in a second hand shop a couple of years ago – called simply Australian Ghost Towns.

Joadja Historic Site is located in the Southern Highlands of New South Wales, Australia. The town of Joadja was established in the late 1870’s by the Australian Kerosene Oil and Mineral Co. 

Hundreds of Scottish miners with mining and retorting skills settled in the area to exploit the oil shale. ​The Scottish heritage in the valley meant that the town soon had its own distillery and brewery. The town grew to be about 1,300. Men women and children.

I will try to let the photos do the talking but as always you really need to visit these places. Alternatively if you search “Joadja” on YouTube there are some interesting videos.

You can also visit the Joadja website for more information and to book a tour: https://www.joadjatown.com.au/

The owners now run guided tours of the old ruins. We went on a combined ghost town and distillery tour. The tour was excellent and the guide (one of the owners of the land) was extremely informative.

Two Spaniards Maintaining History

The land now belongs to a couple who were born thousands of miles away on the other side of the world. Valero and Elisa Jimenez bought the 718 acre property just over a decade ago at an auction. They now own and manage the old Joadja town.

Valero was born in Málaga and came to Australia as a six year old in 1972. Elisa was born in Jerez and moved to Australia in 1971 when she was 18 months old. They met years later, in 1987, at Valero’s sister’s Sydney law practice.

 Although the Jimenezes had no experience in making whisky or gin they contacted a man who did and the Joadja distillery was reborn. The current Joadja Distillery was established in 2014.

Basically the rocks (shale) in the area contain oil which has to be extracted and then refined (in the same way as oil is refined now – more or less). But first of course the shale has to be mined. So it is a 3 step process. Compare that to oil shooting up from the ground in Texas, USA. Relatively easy to get out and then only needs refining. This was the main reason that shale oil towns like Joadja simply couldn’t compete. Once American oil products hit the market Joadja’s fate was sealed.

The Ghost Town

At the moment only accompanied tours are on offer but the owners hope to get permission to allow self guided tours and have overnight accommodation on site. That would be great. Hopefully the ongoing talks with local councils and land agencies go smoothly.

 
Inside the remaining houses

Several remains of the old town still lie hidden by overgrown bush and trees. The owners hop to get permission to clear other areas and so extent the tour to include more ruins.

There is also the original old cemetery (see below) which, as regular readers will know, always fascinates me.

Cemetery

Yes, another cemetery. If you want to see the others I have blogged about, just type in “cemetery” in the search bar and the posts will pop up.

Joadja cemetery is currently not on the land owned by the couple that own the ghost town and distillery. But apparently that may soon change. I definitely think this place should be part of the ghost town tour. That said, it is easily accessible (best on foot) just before you see the old school house on the descent into Jodja.

I know to some it may seem a bit weird but these places interest me. No ghost town or even semi-ghost-town is complete without a cemetery. (And no after-life pun intended.) These places tell us a large part of the story of the old towns. In this case the obvious – a host of Scottish names. Plus as always in these places the very sad sight of the extremely young. Always remember that infant mortality was high just about everywhere back in those days – a century and a half ago.

Distillery

Included in the price of our trip was a tour and tasting guide of the distillery.

Apparently the distillery is one of a few single malt distilleries in the world to grow their own barley and have access to natural pristine spring water on-site.

The distillery produces several whiskies along with gin, vodka and rum. Also they market an imported Vermouth and Pedro Jiménez sherry – produce of Spain. All are available in the after tour tasting session. Needless to say I only had the odd sip as I was driving.

I have visited many alcohol production sites over the years. From real ale breweries to wineries to sherry and port makers. This was the first whisky distillery. I found it smaller than expected but interesting and from the small samples I tried, high quality. They even sell a type of gin to the NSW Governor some of which made it to Buckingham Palace.

If you get the chance visit this place. I highly recommend it.

Wait! What? Part 3? THREE!? What happened? I thought I said I would stop at two…

Ok, ok, I admit it. I did. But this one is quite interesting for a number of reasons. Especially if you don’t know the story of the housing in this part of Sydney. Also some of this story applies to many inner city public/council housing projects. So, please, read on…

Firstly, please be sure to read Parts 1 & 2 – here and here. They provide background information and context to what I was originally writing about here. However, in this particular case, there is a lot more to the story.

Cook Themed Structures in Waterloo, South of Sydney City Centre

Waterloo is an inner city suburb just south of Redfern which is just south of the centre of Sydney. Famous (or infamous maybe) for the large social housing tower blocks built in the 1970s and officially opened by the Queen Elizabeth. Anyway, that area has been historically, home to most of the city’s aboriginal community. These days there are probably more asian residents but there is a fair mix including a lot of elderly who have lived there since the concrete blocks were built.

As always with these (supposedly) well intentioned housing projects the area had many problems with drug gangs and crime. Over the years the buildings were known by other names including “suicide towers”. I won’t dwell too much on this. We all know the score and you can read up on it online if you want to know more.

Suffice to say that these so called “eyesores” were due for demolition as the area was up for a complete revamp. It was talked about almost 20 years ago, then again almost 10 years back; but still has not happened. There is the counter argument of course – one I subscribe to actually. That is, that such buildings are becoming rare now as they usually get demolished. Also they are as much part of the architectural history of a city as any other buildings. I would keep them – and it seems that may be happening. 

As recently as 2019 (just before the covid scamdemic) the area was up for total revamp to accommodate the new Metro line c/w a Waterloo station. There is even talk of adding new tower blocks as tall as 40-storeys! Crazy eh? Who knows what is going to happen? Anyway, search online for “Waterloo towers Sydney” and there are plenty of stories and items. Quite interesting but nothing exclusive to Sydney by any means.

Captain Cook Place and Memorial Sundial

The Sundial was installed in 1970 (made by Sundials Australia) when the tower blocks were still being completed, to commemorate the Bicentenary of Captain James Cook’s landing at Botany Bay. It is located in the green space between James Cook and Joseph banks tower blocks on Raglan Street, Waterloo. Embedded in the base is a map of Australia and New Zealand showing the route of his ship, the Endeavour. A metal bar extends from the north arm to south arm and the shadow cast indicates the time.

At the base one plaque explains the memorial while on the other side a second plaque displays the time correction graph.

The sundial monument is bordered by two wide 17-storey tower blocks. The blocks are called James Cook and Joseph Banks (the British botanist on Cook’s ship when they landed at Botany Bay). Anyone who knows anything about public/council/social housing knows how these projects turn out. Things have improved in recent years due to gentrification and a broader social mix of inhabitants. 

The two other similarly designed tower blocks in the area are named Daniel Solander (after the Swedish botanist who was working with Joseph Banks) and Marton – the town where Cook was born. It is astounding that these place names have remained for so long. 

Obviously if such a housing estate was built and named today none of those names would be used. Or even considered. Far from it. The huge blocks would be named after obscure Aboriginal elders/leaders. Or, if built in the 1990s they would have been named something like Nelson Mandela House, Steve Biko Towers. etc etc  Just think Only Fools and Horses – the classic UK comedy series. (If you know you know.) Just ask anyone from a British inner city and they will tell you that the naming of such buildings was (is) commonplace. 

James Cook Community Garden

Adjacent to James Cook tower is the James Cook Community Garden. The gates were locked from both sides. The gates to the (community) garden on the road side are decorated each side by mosaic tiled artwork (see below). 

Let me tell you: Park Güell  (in Barcelona) it is not! But against the back-drop of those huge grey concrete ‘walls’ it is a well intentioned attempt. As are the gardens themselves in this area (there are a few). They allow people to grow vegetables and herbs while meeting neighbours. 

Other Blocks…

There are six blocks in the Waterloo project. There are also two other straight up (narrower but not as broad) 30-storey tower blocks called Matavai and Turanga. Those names are also Cook themed names taken from the great Captain’s voyages. You live and learn eh? 

Matavai, is the place in Tahiti, where Captain Cook observed the famous astronomical event called the transit of Venus in 1768. While “Turanga” is the Maori word for. “landing place” where his ship’s first anchored in New Zealand. So now you know! 

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Well, as promised a month or so ago here is Part Two of this little dive into the mad world that is about to engulf Australia (Note: my prediction). Everything to do with one of the greatest sailors and navigators in history will, I predict, soon be erased; so go and see them and photograph them now while you still can. OK, I may be exaggerating here but I do not think by much. Once it all kicks off it will snowball very rapidly – as these things tend to. We have seen isolated incidents already and soon it will turn into a one way tsunami (I predict).

In case you missed the first part click here to read and see that one… There is some good background info in that first post.

Anyway let’s get into it…

Pub

There are a few pubs (aka hotels) named after Captain Cook in Sydney. There is one in Botany not far from the airport and main shipping port, plus one in Millers Point near the CBD (see below). This one is in Paddington not far from the Sydney Cricket Ground (SCG). 

I intend to have a beer in every pub named after the great Captain..

Cooks River

Cooks River flows into Botany Bay after running right alongside the airport. Now this one is a bit of a mystery. Streets, pubs, statues, even parks, are all new things built in recent year and given names. But this river would have already had an Aboriginal name. At least I would have thought so. Which makes it all the more amazing that this river has not already been renamed. Or is that ‘name reverted’? How do they phrase such a thing? Anyway, surely you get my point. Basically what they did to Ayers Rock and many other places. 

I wonder what they will rename the Cooks River Croquet club??

Cook Park – Botany Bay

This one covers some area and is a great spot looking out over Botany Bay. There are plenty of signs that will inevitably need replacing (probably) unless common sense prevails…

Kurnell

I feel I should do a full post all about Kurnell. This of course was the actual spot where Captain Cook landed. The first (known) European to set foot in eastern Australia. 

Did I not already do one? (Pops off to check)… No! It seems I did not! Quite amazing really as this place is as historical as it gets in Australia. The absolute pinnacle in fact. And I have visited the spot a few times. OK readers. I promise to give you a post dedicated to Kurnell in the near future… Meanwhile here are the Cook related features that could soon be renamed and lost forever. 

Cook and Philip Pool and Park

This one is just off Hyde Park in the centre of Sydney. Stones throw away from the Cook statue in fact (if you are a really good stone thrower). The sports centre is alongside a park of the same name. 

This one is of course doubly offensive (sarc). Not only did they have the audacity to name these places after the great captain but also that Philip bloke. Yes Arthur Philip, the real “invader” and first governor of the new colony. Surely all evidence of his existence must also be erased?

Once again I find myself asking: How the fook has this one stood unchallenged (and not been renamed) for so long?

Captain James Cook Memorial, Liverpool 

Liverpool is a suburb in the south west of Sydney. It is here that you will find a strange little memorial in a small park. Not particularly impressive but very visible, easy to access and no signs of vandalism at all. In fact there is even a more recently installed plaque to commemorate the 250th anniversary of Cook’s landing (which was in 2020). So a big up to the locals and council in Liverpool I say!  

James Cook High School

I expected there to be quite a few schools named after the great man but only one I found around Sydney. Do you know of more? If so then please share them with a comment. 

This school – James Cook Boys Technology High School to give it its full title – is in Kogarah in south west Sydney, less than 1km directly inland from Botany Bay.

Notable Mentions…

Here are a few streets I never managed to get to:

Cook Road: There are several. In Marrickville, Killara and Oyster Bay.

Cook Avenue: These street names can be found in Daceyville, Canada Bay and Canley Vale.

Captain Cook Drive:  There is only one of these (oddly) that I found in Willmot. 

Cook Street: Again, not as many as you might expect. Apart form the one that runs alongside the Cook statue in Randwick (see part 1) there are Cook Streets in Glebe and Rozelle.

Do you know of any other places named after Captain James Cook? If you do then please share them with a comment. Would you like to see a Part Three? Answers in the comments please

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Yesterday was Leap Day. The 29th of February, the day that comes around once every four years. Officially the last day of summer in Australia. It was just over four years ago that I first saw this place. It impressed me then and still impresses me now.

Four years ago it was Dani’s first school swimming carnival (or as I would call it “gala”). I wrote about it then – click here for that one. Hard to believe that was four years ago…

This week we were back at the Drummoyne Swimming Centre (aka Drummoyne Olympic Pool). It was his 4th such swimming carnival (he and most of the kids missed one during that covid crap). This was the first time that the weather held out all day. And it was hot! Very warm and zero breeze. 

This year Dani’s school year is the lead primary year and it was their turn to swim alongside the Year 1 kids doing their first swimming carnival. That is always great to see. It’s also funny too. 

This year Dani didn’t do much better in freestyle or backstroke (finishing positions at least) but he did win his breaststroke heat. But he was very level-headed about it. He knew “it was a weak heat” – his own words. But I checked the times that he swam and he has improved. That’s the main thing. Concentrate on technique and the rest will follow. He is still one of the smallest. When he puts on a growth spurt and puts on a bit of muscle, having the technique will turn into faster times. 

One big difference this year. The pool now charges parents an entry fee. It’s a first. It was only about $5 but it’s the principle really. Not a good sign. Perhaps another (local) government funded facility that is not quite getting the funding it needs? Who knows? If you do know then please let us all know and leave a comment. It seems now, in Sydney (and Australia in general), that just about everyone and every company, business or authority is increasing costs and passing them on to us consumers. Not good.